Partly Cloudy   36.0F  |  Forecast »
Bookmark and Share Email this page Email Print this page Print Feed Feed

Idaho’s Basque Tables

A distinct Old World culture brought culinary treasures to the Gem State.

(page 3 of 3)


A Basque community picnic at the Boise Municipal Park, Boise, 1950.


Ansotegui imports choricero, or red pepper seeds, from the Basque Country and has them locally planted and grown. Her chief cook, Alberto Bereziartua, frequently returns to the Basque Country to collect important ingredients like the ink sauce used in preparing squid.

Dan Ansotegui, Chri’s brother, opened Bar Gernika in 1991 and patterned it after the Basque pubs he had “fallen in love with” during his travels to the Basque Country. “Basque pubs are all about family and friends, where people just go to meet with others. They bring their kids, and food is very important. I wanted Bar Gernika to be about that.”

Gernika serves casual meals of lamb sandwiches, chorizo, solomo (pork), and its famous croquetas, a deep-fried-bread-crumb-coated ball of butter, onion and chicken that first crunches, then melts in a hungry mouth. Another Gernika specialty is beef tongue in red sauce, which is only served on Saturdays and usually runs out in less than two hours.

In addition to the menu, those delicate coffee cups that hang above the bar are indication of the pub’s cultural focus. “Basque coffee was always in the bars,” he said. “Lots of the bars had their logos on the coffee cups.” Ansotegui said he brought the first cups back from the Old Country, and patrons have continued to bring them back from their travels and contribute to the collection. Ansotegui sold Gernika in 2008 to Jeff May, a former employee who has kept the original menu, atmosphere and vision.

“What Americans know about Basque cuisine today is not necessarily traditional in the Basque Country. It is a new form of Basque cooking, one that was adapted out of necessity and evolved in America after the Basques arrived.”
-Alberto Santana Ezkerra, Professor of Basque Studies, Boise State University

The newcomer in Boise is Leku Ona Basque Restaurant and Hotel, founded in 2005 by Jose Artiach, a Basque immigrant who arrived in Boise in 1967 to herd sheep. Leku Ona, Basque for “good place,” occupies a historic brick building—formerly a boardinghouse—on the Basque block. The menu offers native-language tongue twisters—Txangurro Kroketak, Makailao Bilbainera, Txarri Txuletak—and authentic recipes passed through the Artiach family and prepared by a chef whose family operated a restaurant in the Basque Country.

“The Basques here have a strong will to preserve our culture,” Artiach said. “This is especially true for many people who came from oppression in the Basque Country.” He said that both his grandmothers had been jailed by Spain for speaking their native Basque language during Francisco Franco’s regime in Spain.

Celebrate Life

From the Bay of Biscay to the Idaho mountains, the Basque culture has continued to evolve and adapt, but one thing it has never lost is its traditional meaning.

“What I think of with the Basque culture is the old-fashioned, sitting-down sharing what happened to you that day—visiting and not hurrying,” said Chris Ansotegui at Epi’s in Meridian. “It’s about the friendship and love that centers around meals. It’s not a time to talk business. It’s a precious time to set aside. What we eat and the way we eat is part of the Basque identity.

Ezkerra put it this way: “We have a saying, ‘It’s not a real meal if you can see each other’s legs,’ meaning there must be a table in between us, and we must be sitting and enjoying the meal together.” He continued, “The Basque culture has survived well in Idaho, really, through our leisure activities. Food, drink, dance, sport. It’s not a political identity. It is about the joys of life.”

If the vitality of Basque culture in Idaho is any indication, those joys are alive and well.

 

 

 

Sun Valley Magazine encourages its readers to post thoughtful and respectful comments on all of our online stories. Your comments may be edited for length and language.

Old to new | New to old
Jun 14, 2010 07:38 pm
 Posted by  Anonymous

My compliments to the fine job you did in researching and writing this article. Many have been done about my family over the years....none match the quality of this one.


Dave Inchausti

Jun 15, 2010 10:23 am
 Posted by  Jnisson

I agree ! I'm 2nd generation of this family. I am so thrilled with this article. Thank you Sun Valley Magazine !!

Jesse Mallory Nisson

Jun 15, 2010 10:25 am
 Posted by  Jnisson

oops...... I'm third generation

Jun 19, 2010 08:02 am
 Posted by  Anonymous

As an Ansotegui serving in Afghanistan I am always happy to see such articles that share an accurate and entertaining history of the Basque culture. I can't wait to return home and share stories and visit with my grandpa.

Oct 12, 2011 05:19 pm
 Posted by  Olatz Saitua

I am niece of EpiĀ“s friend in school Juana Paguaga, who emigrated to NY from Ibarragelu in 1919, and just found out about Epi. We also have family in Idaho and Seattle, Guisasaola, arrived in Boise in 1915. Both sides came to the Basque Country this summer. Happy to know people from Ibarrangelu settled in USA and made history in many different ways.

Olatz Saitua, fromo Ibarrangelu

Jun 22, 2012 06:17 pm
 Posted by  Anonymous

My husbands first love was Chris back in 1978. I can see how he was attracted!

This has been flagged
Jul 20, 2013 03:47 pm
 Posted by  Patti Murphy

Belatedly, I want to thank all of you for your kind comments on this article. Obviously, with a name like Murphy, I am not Basque, but I have graciously been welcomed into the community by my Basque friends and acquaintances who have said I could change my name to Patti Murphyaga. :) Its a wonderful community, and I had a great time researching this article. Unfortunately, it didn't include any free food. Thank you again for your comments.

Add your comment:
advertisment

Advertisement