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three-TEN-main

If the Wood River Valley had a “Top Chef” competition, Derek Gallegos (owner and chef at three-TEN-main) would surely be the last chef standing. This guy is a lover of food as well as a veritable scientist in the kitchen. Example: Tomato water topped with basil foam in a shot glass. BASIL FOAM??? Seriously? Who comes up with that? One of the most famous chefs in the world—Ferran Adria of elBulli in Spain, that’s who. He’s the guy who earned three stars in the Guide Michelin and is held in high esteem for deconstructing food into tiny bites of wonderment. So when Peter and I headed to Hailey for dinner, we had no idea what three-TEN-main held in store, but we knew we were in for an adventure.

But before I divulge the delicious details of our evening I need to mention an important element that so beautifully influences the menu at three-TEN-main. Chef Derek’s commitment to buying locally is strong and heavily influences his food. The menu changes monthly—if not nightly—contingent upon local availability of produce and meat. three-TEN-main bakes their own bread, (the semolina baguette was outstanding and I had to restrain myself from eating the whole basket!) cures their own meat and makes their own desserts including ice cream.

1st row: Interior of three-TEN-main is cozy but not crowded. Outdoor seating available seasonally.
2nd row: Beef Tataki; Tomato water and basil foam shots; Hamaci with avocado and grapefruit.
3rd row: Farmer's Market Tomato Salad (best salad in the valley); Chef Derek sneaks out of the kitchen for a quick photo with Julie.
4th row: Sweet Pea and Ricotta Ravioli; Red Curry Scallops.

 

We arrived at 8pm on a Friday night. Fortunately I had the foresight to make a reservation since there was not an empty seat in the house. Let me start off by telling you about the ambience. The restaurant is small, seating only about eight to ten tables with a handful of tables outside (warm weather seating, obviously). I applaud three-TEN-main for not making a misstep by putting one too many tables in this intimate space. It’s elegant and classic, but never stuffy. We were seated by Jacqui, who was attentive, knowledgeable and provided consistent service throughout the evening. We began with appetizers and beer, yes beer, we like it and make no apologies; Negra Modelo ($4) and a Sierra Nevada Kelerweis Hefeweizen ($4).

We decided to take things slow and start off with Beef Tataki ($16) with marinated shitake mushrooms and topped with Tempura sweet potatoes (to die for!); the aforementioned tomato water with basil foam shot (pallet cleanser); a Farmer’s Market Tomato Salad with Wood River Organic’s baby lettuces, Shooting Star Farm heirloom tomatoes, fresh basil, lemon, olive oil and Bigwood Bakery bruschetta with home-made mascarpone, topped with Pecorino-Romano and balsamic syrup. ($11) HOLY CRAP. Some of you may be familiar with my salad addiction and I may be ruined for life after this. (Note: this salad could easily be a meal for those so inclined). The piece de resistance was the Hamachi (yellowtail) ($16) with diced avocado and grapefruit with a yuzu vinaigrette, topped with nori and sesame seeds—a light and refreshing appetizer. We could have stopped there. But we didn’t.

Our entrées needed an entrée so we ordered a couple of glasses of Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc. ($7 glass, $28 bottle, FYI: it is currently my new favorite Sauvignon Blanc.) Peter believes he was Mahatma Gandhi in another life and thus loves curry, so he ordered the Red Curry Bay Scallops ($22) simmered in coconut milk and red Thai curry sauce, served with jasmine rice, cucumber ribbons, cashews, crispy shallots and fresh mint. The bay scallops were small and bite-sized and finished with a bit of cucumber and crispy shallot—sweet, rich and fresh all at once. He felt the dish put a lovely Asian spin on passive resistance and world peace. In my attempt to nix the rumor around the office that I don’t like pasta, I ordered the Sweet Pea and Ricotta Ravioli ($18). It’s handmade pasta tossed with a lemon-brown butter sauce, roasted shitake mushrooms, crispy, house-cured pancetta and grated Parmigiano-Romano. Handmade pasta bears little resemblance to the store bought variety, just for the record, and I may never buy boxed pasta again, ever.

The evening ended as expected—perfectly— with a lovely selection of homemade ice creams including: vanilla bean, peanut brittle, toasted almond sea-salt caramel, nutella-chocolate chip, peach and pistachio. Peter and I fought over the pistachio and I hoarded the peach, so as to avoid argument. If you’ve never tasted peach ice cream on a warm summer’s evening, you haven’t lived.

There may be dozens of restaurants like three-TEN-main in big cities like San Francisco and New York, but to possess such a thing in a little place like Hailey is a gastronomic dream come true. And while it may not inspire the drama and intrigue you’ll find on a good episode of Top Chef, it’s got the talent, the menu and the vision to be one of the Valley’s best restaurants.